There are few places in the world so tiny yet so capable of holding the weight of centuries of kings and saints on its shores as Scotland’s Isle of Iona. This miniscule isle off of Scotland’s rugged coast is the cradle of Scottish Christianity that punches well above its weight in terms of historical importance.
Beyond its significance as a place that has attracted religious pilgrims for centuries, it is truly one of the most unique places to visit in Scotland. Situated off the coast of the Isle of Mull in the Inner Hebrides, Iona is only 1.5 miles wide by 3 miles long with a population of 170 permanent residents. It feels like it’s located at the very end of the earth.
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Quick history (or at least as quick as I can provide with 1500+ years of history to summarize). A man named Columba arrived on Iona in 563 with 12 of his monk pals. For the next 34 years they pursued missionary outreach and built a settlement with remnants still standing today. Iona was the heart of missionary work for hundreds of years until the Vikings raided it in 802. The monks had left back to safer shores in Ireland, taking the Book of Kells and Columba’s remains with them. The Book of Kells is now on display at Trinity College in Dublin.
Saint Andrew’s overtook Iona as the heart of Christianity in Scotland after that, in part because Iona remained a very convenient place to raid if you were a Viking. It was sacked on and off for a couple hundred years before it gained some protection under the Lordship of the Isles.
A benedictine abbey, Iona Abbey, was built in 1203 and is still standing today. Four tall, intricately carved Celtic crosses that date back to the 8th and 9th centuries once stood close to the abbey and three of them can be seen in the museum attached to the Abbey with the fourth still standing in its original place. This small graveyard is the final resting place of local clan chieftains and “Kings of the Isles.”
Getting to the Isle of Iona
Getting to Iona in some ways feels like you’re actually going to the end of the earth, but the reward is worth it. It can be reached relatively easily without a rental car, but if you have one all the better.
Here’s the tl;dr: Glasgow/Edinburgh -> bus/car/train -> ferry -> bus/car -> ferry -> Iona
You’ll need to drive, or take a train, or take a bus from Glasgow or Edinburgh to Oban. In Oban, you’ll board a ferry for Craignure on the Isle of Mull, either with your rental car or on foot. They have several departures each day; the schedule can be viewed here. You’ll want to plan accordingly, though if you arrive in Oban a couple hours before a sailing time, Oban is a perfectly lovely and walkable town.
The ferry is an hour long and is a very pleasant ride. It’s quite large and has a ton of comfortable indoor seating. Even if you’re prone to seasickness, you shouldn’t have any issues.
Once you arrive in Craignure disembark from the ferry, you can either drive or take the bus to Fionnphort. The bus departs Craignure three times a day, The bus timetable and information is here. If your ferry runs late for whatever reason, the bus will wait for the ferry before leaving, so fear not.
After approximately an hours’ ride from Craignure, the bus will drop you off at Fionnphort Post Office, which is a 3 minute walk to the ferry loading dock. You’ll be able to see just about all of the Isle of Iona on a clear day from the shores of Mull. It’s that tiny and that close.
The ferry leaves frequently and is only a 10 minute ride. To see the timetable and see which buses correspond with which ferry times, click here. It feels like you could probably swim it pretty comfortably, but I still recommend the ferry. You should leave your rental car in Fionnphort; you won’t need it in Iona.
Adding in just a little layer of complexity: the ferry will not run if the sea is too stormy. Make sure you’re paying attention to the weather and any announcements that come from the ferry operator, CalMac. Still trying to plan your visit? Check out my Best Month to Visit Scotland post.
Exploring the Isle of Iona
The Iona Abbey and Nunnery are the best places to spend your time on Iona, even if you’re not at all religious. From April through September it’s open 9:30am-5:30pm Monday-Saturday and 12:30am-5:30pm on Sundays, so you’ll want to plan your time accordingly. Admission is £10.00. I recommend staying overnight in Iona because it is one of the most serene places you could possibly spend an evening, and the extra time will give you more flexibility to explore.
Your admission allows you to admire the abbey church, fully restored and operational. Stand on the little hill above the abbey where St. Columba likely had his writing hut. Explore the graveyard of ancient Scottish kings. See the iconic and intact 8th century Celtic crosses. And be sure to walk the Street of the Dead, a medieval route still flanked by a perfect replica of St John’s Cross.
As I’ve publicly stated before, with much chagrin, I’m not always a big museum girlie. Or even a guided audio tour girlie. This museum, however, was incredibly interesting, and the guided audio tour was phenomenal. I stayed until closing when the sweet staff finally asked me to leave.
If you choose to stay the night, might I highly, highly recommend an early morning walk across the island to St. Columba’s Bay (don’t panic, the whole island is only 3 miles wide, remember?). This shore is believed to be the place where Columba and his monks landed in 563.
The walk was a bit strenuous at times, but I ran into absolutely nobody in the early morning light and could really take my time. If you’ve been traveling in Scotland in the summer months, you’ll understand that finding yourself alone is nothing short of a miracle.
To get to the bay, you’ll pass grazing land and think to yourself, “Is that a golf course?” And yes it is; it’s actually an 18 hole course on the tiny island. The sheep and cows might give you a side eye as you walk past them, but odds are they’ll generally ignore you and allow you to snap some pics if you’re subtle about it.
Once you’re at the bay, rest and enjoy the peace and overwhelming sense of history. The conical piles of stones at the west side are ancient and remain a mystery, despite various theories posed by historians.
For bird lovers and aspiring geologists who are able to spend a night or two on Iona, look into booking a tour to the Isle of Staffa. Staffa is famous for its dramatic rock formations, a cave called Fingal’s Cave, and its nesting puffins (!!). Several local tour companies pick up from Iona.
I spent a half day on a tour with Staffa Tours and had such a wonderful time. The puffins nest during the late spring into the summer months and are also generally unbothered if you get close to them and snap some pics. In fact, I’m pretty sure they know they’re fabulous and pose for the photos, the cheeky wee birds.
Accommodations of the Isle of Iona:
The Isle of Iona is small and thus has limited accommodations. I recommend booking as early as possible if you’re considering visiting. Even if you’re not sold, see if there are any options that allow you to book now and cancel for free if you change your mind.
My recommendations:
St. Columba Hotel – This hotel is perfectly located near the Abbey (granted, it’s hard to be very far from the Abbey on this small of an isle), and eco-certified. It has amazing sea views from the guest rooms and common spaces and locally grown food available at the restaurant on site.
Ardoran Guest House – The wonderful staff of this guest house will pick you up from the ferry, bring you to the guest house, and help ensure you have a perfect stay on Iona. It’s a beautiful beach location, and slightly further away from the Abbey so you’ll have total peace and quiet.
Airbnb Glamping Pod – For those who are used to camping, these pods will be a luxurious step up from that. Enjoy nature even more on your walk outside to and from the restroom.
What to Eat on Iona
Mussels. That’s it. That’s the recommendation.
Only mostly kidding! There are two sit-down restaurants on Iona. The first is St. Columba Hotel’s restaurant which has locally grown and sourced food options and delicious handmade delicacies. The other is Argyll Hotel’s restaurant, which also uses as much local and seasonal produce as possible. Both of them serve Isle of Mull mussels in some delectable combination of garlic, wine, and butter.
For more casual options, there’s a pizza restaurant, Ailidh (pronounced AYE-lee), which is conveniently located in the main part of town. Over in that area is the Rookery Cafe, which is a part of the Iona Heritage Center. The food is about what you’d expect from a cafe attached to a museum – not bad, but not fresh mussels in garlic butter either.
Finally, there is a SPAR grocery store that is very highly priced given its location on the Isle of Iona. If picnicking is your jam, and I totally recommend it if you’re sticking to a budget, I would stock up on a few things at the Tesco or ALDI located near the ferry terminal in Oban.
When visiting places of historical significance, I find I often get lost in the modernity of everything and have a difficult time really connecting the place to the people who walked before us. That problem doesn’t exist on the Isle of Iona; the island is so small with such undeniable evidence of history that it’s impossible not to connect with this precious place.
I adored spending time on the Isle of Iona. Iona has an indescribable atmosphere on its soils, as if there is a presence that dwells on the island after centuries and centuries of prayer, washed down through the ages. Anybody that describes it as soul-stirring or a place of serenity and wonder isn’t being dramatic.
And while I fully know that the earth is round, staring out at the sea from Columba’s Bay, you can sympathize with everyone back in the day that assumed you could sail off the planet. It feels like it on tiny little Iona.
Anyone looking to get off Scotland’s beaten path will fall in love with the Isle of Iona. Anyone with an appreciation of Scottish history will fall in love with Iona. Anyone with any spirituality whatsoever will fall in love with Iona.
The Isle of Iona is firmly on my list of Top 10 Places to Visit in Scotland; check out the rest of the list for other unforgettable places to visit in Scotland.
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